Since 1916 the famous Neo-Renaissance Italian style railway station (Annibal Rigotti and Mario Tamagno) has been living its last years. The arrival or departure place for destinations within the country, which sees 60,000 passengers per day but also the luxurious, international Eastern and Oriental Express. Almost all travelers passed through Hua Lamphong Station (wild oxen) during their trip to Thailand, this will no longer be the case in 2021 and will have to go to the new modern Bang Sue station. No one knows what will happen to this historic monument, however, part of it would be transformed into a railway museum.
The gate (odeon) of Chinatown and the temple of the Golden Buddha (Wat Traimit). The area is also renowned for its street food, some of whom are established for several generations. This neighborhood is also known for its cheap hostels and nightlife.
There are many popular restaurants in this district called Samphanthanwong. Some have been around for decades, others for a century, which has remained almost unchanged since the opening day and some continue the culinary heritage of their great-grandparents.
Noodles and Roasted Duck with Sugar Cane (pet hop chan oy)
The unique dish served in this small restaurant is roasted duck or pork with morning glory vegetables and egg noodles. The smoked canard is delicious, the homemade pork ball is perfect, I like to eat duck and really enjoyed this dish, 60 baht. Recommended
Open 9 am to 3 pm
Closed on Monday
Address. 338 Mitthapap Thai-China road. In front of the Traimit temple
Daeng Racha Hoi Tod
A recipe of Hoi Tod for generations, ever since the great-great-grandfather of the current owner (Mr. Daeng) immigrated to Thailand. There is really nothing that make-believe that the restaurant belongs to one of the richest families in the country that founded the Thai Beverage Company. For fear of seeing their very appreciated recipe disappear, they decided not to close the restaurant, which is more than a century old.
I went there around 11 am, and there are always customers, especially the regulars. The restaurant also serves soups, Hainanese chickens rice, fried noodles, and congee, but most of them come for Hoi Tod, 50 baht. I hadn’t had this dish since my visit to the mussels and fried oysters in Charoen Krung, and I prefer Daeng Racha, more crispy and not oily, don’t forget to season it with the Sri Racha sauce. I had one of my favorite drinks a “cha dam yen” Thai iced black tea, 10 baht. Reasonably fast service.
Open daily 9 am to 2.30 pm
Address. 336/342 Sukon 1 Alley
Generally, hoi tod restaurants only open in the evening and close late. Daeng Racha is one of the few who open early in the morning. Very popular and well-known for the mussels and oysters omelet/pancake is better to get there before 1 pm.
A little further down the Soi is the Si Morakot (emerald-colored) restaurant, which is over 70 years old and still very popular, famous for its khao moo daeng moo krob. He started as a vendor with a street food stall and opened this restaurant in 1977, which is now in the hands of the second generation. Roasted and crispy pork, hard-boiled eggs, salted Chinese sausage served on rice with a rich, slightly sweet sauce. The pork is marinated for several hours and cooked with charcoal which gives it a light smoky taste. It is indeed very good but many other street stalls and restaurants offer this dish and I can’t say that it is the best, 50 baht.
Open 10 am to 5.30 pm
Address. 80-82 Sukon 1 Alley
Chong Kee Satay
A three-generation family-run business, only one menu: pork/liver satay. I came here a few times, but that day I bought a set of pork (10 pcs, 80 baht) to take back home and share with my friend French neighbor for the aperitif.
Their way of doing things here is well-known to the regulars: to make the meat soft, and tender it is marinated in a mixture of fresh fruit juices, which also gives it a touch of acidity. It is then covered with a mixture of yellow curry powder and grilled over charcoal. Here, the texture of Satay sauce is more liquid than thick and nutty as it is usually found in other restaurants. Excellent!
Open Monday 9.30 am to 2 pm
Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am to 6.30 pm
Address,84, Soi Sukhon 1
Trok Rongmoo Noodle
The board on the sidewalk at the entrance and the “well-dressed” staff makes a good impression and made me think that this restaurant was worth a visit, a disappointment. Kuay teow, noodles (I chose sen mee) with minced pork, wonton, entrails, fried pork and fried tau ou (tofu), I was not impressed at all. 50 baht.
Open daily 10 am to 5 pm
Address. 23/10 Sukon 1 alley
Scoop Ice cream homemade
It was my second visit to this little ice cream homemade shop, and I like it. Ice cream and sorbet, cheap and delicious, modern, clean, of course with air-conditioned, the only one with So-k coffee in this Soi. Wide choice of flavors. 1 scoop 30 baht, but also by cone, small 10 baht, large 15, and waffle. The gentleman owner speaks English.
Open Monday to Saturday 12 am to 10 pm
Sunday 11 am to 5.30 pm
Address. 23-8-9 Sukon 1 Alley
Thai Dessert at Cheng Sim Ei
Opposite to Scoop is one of the numerous branches around Bangkok of this famous Thai dessert restaurant. I liked my combination (beans, prunes and Ginkgo seeds) not too sweet. Ching Sim in Chinese means “happiness to eat”, “Ei” refers to a round-shaped dough. Worth a try.
Open 11.30 am to 16.30
They also have a stand at the food court in the mall Terminal 21 easily identifiable with the famous Mango Sticky Rice.
Thai Rung Rueng
Opposite the Golden Buddha temple. Food stalls much appreciated by the locals.
Open 5.30 to 10 pm
Address. 330/10 soi Sukon 2
Manop Suki Rod Kraba– kraba means truck and Manop young man
Thai Style Suki is one of Thailand’s street food. “Suki” comes from “Sukiyaki” a kind of Japanese hot pot. Wun sen (glass noodles), marinated meat (pork, chicken or seafood), egg, fresh nappa cabbage, morning glory, and a sweet chili suki sauce, made of fermented soybean paste. It is served with soup (Suki Nam) or dry (Suki Haeng), 50 baht.
In Chinatown for 33 years, In the beginning, it combined street suki and family transport, nowadays no more truck but still popular. Located in front of the Chinatown gate.
In my point of view, not the best suki, the crispy pork is good, but after few drinks in Soi Nana, it’s fine. The owner speaks English
Address. Luan Ait Alley
Open daily 18.00-24.00
Jae Hmoy Kia Pork Congee
For breakfast, mainly frequented by locals and regulars. No seat inside but on the street. Despite a large number of customers I didn’t have to wait to be served. It’s very good, a treat, and I agree that it’s one of the best congee in Bangkok, and I like the morning atmosphere of the place, but Jok Prince is the best for me.
I chose the one with everything in it “sai took yang” 49 baht
Open 3 am to 10 pm.
Closed on Monday
Address. 330/14 Soi Sukon 2
Jade Old town
After lunch, you can have a good coffee and cake in this small recently open and well renovated old-style building. They also have a healthy food menu, and pay a visit to the nice art gallery on the second floor.
Open 9.30 am to 7 pm.
Weekend 9.30 am to 8 pm
Address. 86 Rama IV Rd
- And in the words of Chef David Thompson, master and passionate advocate of Thai street food: “Eating on the street is the easiest and cheapest way to enjoy Thai food” He also wrote a book about it Thai Street Food: Authentic Recipes, Vibrant Traditions.
How to go there
MRT Hua Lamphong exit 1, cross the bridge and the road, then go left into the Mitthapap Thai-China Road.
A lively area, good location close to many main attraction in the city and great street food
Small but cozy, mini cafe on the first floor. The Soi Nana is two steps away
Hua Lamphong Hostel
In front of Hua Lamphong railway station, and right next to the MRT
A boutique hotel, unattractive from the outside but very elegant and nicely decorated on the inside. Rooftop bar with a view on the area, 10 minutes walk to Soi Nana, Yaowarat Road, and MRT
Little guest house above a coffee shop. 103 was the home of a merchant who imported traditional herbal medicines, mixed, and then offered them to the Chinese working class settlers. Good beer.
Family-owned BnB, nicely decorated. Good location.
I hope this will help you plan your next trip to Bangkok. If you have any questions, I’ll be happy to help you.