Klong Toei is the port and one of the major market of Bangkok. A few years ago I called it the Sukhumvit of the poor. This area still retains the traces and atmosphere of the past but this is changing fast. Big projects are being developed and others are being studied that will, unfortunately, change the face of the neighborhood and the “quiet” life of the local community. Fortunately, there are some very good restaurants, where the cuisine has remained authentic.
Ruen Mallika Royal Thai Cuisine
The Michelin Bib gourmands listed Ruen Mallika. Not only do we eat there very well but in a very pleasant setting in a 200 years old traditional teak house. Beautifully presented dishes and very good service. They have a promotion set for lunch but I recommend for a dinner and It may be safer to take your mosquito repellent with you.
1500 to 3000 baht
For a dinner, it is better going there by taxi
Address. 189 Sukhumvit 22 Rd
A few steps from the Ruen Mallika a very local restaurant, 5 tables, a chef and his wife. Everything is delicious, the curry dishes, the Tom Kha Kai, chicken with coconut milk (coconut milk, broth, ginger, and lemongrass, chicken, mushrooms, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and chili paste) is a real delight, as well as the Tom Yam Kung. Not obvious to find, but why not if you are around. Don’t speak English, but I translated and printed the menu. Excellent!
50 to 80 baht
Opens from 11.00 to 21.00
MRT Queen Sirikit Convention Center, take a motorcycle taxi, 5 baht, ask to go to the Diamond 2 apartment, the restaurant is across the street.
Excellent Rad Na, noodles in gravy sauce, I admit I’m not a big fan of this dish but this one is good and copious. You can also choose the dish of fried noodles (Pad See ew). Cooking on the narrow pavement but you will be invited to eat inside the house. Open from 11.00 to 14.00. 40 baht.
To Go There
MRT Sirikit Center station, take a motorcycle taxi (15 baht), ask to go up to the 7 eleven at the corner of Soi 22, the stall is 30 meters before.
Mae Am The Pink Pad Thai
A small restaurant just a few steps from the MRT station. Mae Am has managed to make a name for herself for her Pad Thai who is among the best in Bangkok. The pasta is prepared before with tamarind paste, sugar cane, and fish sauce and shrimp fat giving them a pinkish color. Like at Pad Thai Ekhamai she fries the eggs separately and put it on top. It is served with the banana leaves and the delicate inner rolled leaves of the flower, lime, chives, fresh bean sprouts, and Mae Am has added the healthy bai bua bok (pennywort, centella) also, the portion is generous. It is best to go after 13.00 when employees had returned to work. Very busy at the end of the day when offices close, many people come to buy for dinner. Definitely one of the best in the city.
Opens from 10.00 to 22.00 from Monday to Friday, open on Sunday at 14.00 – 22.00
Price. No shrimp 50 baht, with shrimp 60 baht, special 100 baht.
After your lunch, you can take a walk in the Benjakitti park. Take right as you leave the restaurant and go up the soi Rong Ngan Ya Sub which will take you into the park in front of the tobacco factory head office, hence the name of the soi, and behind the Queen Sirikit Convention Center which will be demolished next year for the construction of a high rise building. Crossing the park you will reach Sukhumvit Asok, Terminal 21.
To Get There
MRT Klong Toei exit 2, pass the soi Ring Ngan Ya Sub, a few steps and you’re there.
Heng Chun Seng Red meat soup
Open for over 40 years, this restaurant is famous for its tender red meat and their specialty maw fai “firepot,” or hot pot. They serve the soup with two types of noodles, sen mi, and sen lek. I always order sen lek with everything “saie took yang” beef and entrails (tongue, liver, intestines, and spleen) a delicious sugar/salted mixture. But of course, you can choose according to your taste. 50 baht + 2 baht if you drink water. The lady speaks English.
Open. Monday to Friday from 07.00 to 15.00
Closed. No fixed day
Address: 1224-6 Rama IV Road
To Get There
MRT Klong Toei exit 1, walk about 150 meters towards the crossroads, the restaurant is just after the MEA high tower (metropolitan electricity authority)
khao Mang Kai
Right next to Heng Chun Seng there is an unnamed restaurant that serves only khao Mang Kai, Hainanese chicken rice, Boiled chicken, soy sauce, Chinese black vinegar, ginger, small Thai peppers and cucumber slices, which like Kuay teow is a very popular and economical dish. It is served in street stalls and restaurants, fast service. This restaurant serves a very good and big portion. One of my favorite.
40 baht + 2 baht for the glass of water
address. 1224-4 Rama IV Road Rama 4 Road
Dancing Duck Noodles
That’s not a common name for a restaurant. Located behind Heng Chung Sen, the owner used to dance while he cooked what gave it this name. My Thai friend told me it’s a restaurant known for that but also for good duck dishes. I went there several times but never saw him dance. Now the son takes over and tells me that his father helps him from time to time, but he is over the age of dancing. The duck either with noodles or rice is tasty and tender and the soup is very aromatic. You can choose any part, meat, leg, foot intestines and more. Try it!
My dish, noodle soup sen lek with braised duck legs 60 baht
Drink, longan fruit juice 15 baht
The menu is in English but no price list. Prices are a bit high if you choose duck wings, duck’s neck, tongue, gizzard or brown sauce.100 to 150 baht.
Opens from 07.00 to 17.00
Address. 1222/24 Rama 4 avenue
Thai Michelin Award
Shell Shuan Shim “Welcome to Taste”, is Similar to the Michelin stars. It is awarded if a restaurant or company produces excellent tasting products. It was created years ago by a Thai aristocrat named Thanatsri Svasti. An award which is taken quite seriously in Thailand, so you will see the green bowl logo prominently displayed wherever it’s been awarded.
What I Think
I am not in favor of Monosodium glutamate (MSG) and try to avoid it as much as possible. Monosodium glutamate (MSG) is a natural aliment in tomatoes, mushrooms and many other, so why to add more. Most restaurants and stall vendors use it to enhance the flavor, so if you think like me, don’t forget to ask no Ajinomoto please “Pong Choo Rot” Ka/Krap, in Thai.
If you have any questions, I will be more than happy to help you out