Klong Toei is the port and one of the major market of Bangkok. A few years ago I called this area the Sukhumvit of the poor. This area still retains the traces and atmosphere of the past but this is changing fast. Big projects are in progress, and others are being studied that will, unfortunately, change the face of the neighborhood and the “quiet” life of the local community. Fortunately, there are some very good restaurants, where the cuisine has remained authentic.
Ruen Mallika Royal Thai Cuisine
The Michelin Bib gourmands listed Ruen Mallika. Not only do we eat there very well but in a very pleasant setting in a 200 years old traditional teak house. Beautifully presented dishes and very good service. They have a promotion set for lunch but I recommend for dinner and It may be safer to take your mosquito repellent with you.
1500 to 3000 baht
For dinner, it is better going there by taxi
Address. 189 Sukhumvit 22 Rd
A few steps from the Ruen Mallika a very local restaurant, 5 tables, a chef and his wife. Everything is delicious, but the chef cooks curry dishes very well, the Tom Kha Kai, spicy and sour hot soup with coconut milk (Kaffir, Lime Leaves, Lemongrass, Chili Peppers, Coriander, Straw Mushrooms, Chicken, Fish Sauce, and Lime Juice)) is a real delight, *the pad see ew kee mao (drunken stir-fried noodles) is one of my favorite dish, as well as the Tom Yam Kung. Not obvious to find, but why not if you are around. Don’t speak English, but I translated and printed the menu. Excellent!
Be aware this is a street restaurant and cleanliness can dissuade some to eat there.
50 to 80 baht
Opens from 11.00 to 21.00
*The name Kee Mao means drunkard, the true origin of the name is not known. Thai men believe that noodles ” draw “some alcohol and help to cure the hangover the next day. Another is that this dish is so spicy that you have to be a little bit numbed to be able to eat it. More fun, it would be a guy who would have come home completely drunk and cooked something with the available ingredients. More amusing, it would be a guy who came home completely drunk and cooked something with the available ingredients.
MRT Queen Sirikit Convention Center, take a motorcycle taxi, 5 baht, ask to go to the Diamond 2 apartment, the restaurant is across the street.
Lad Na (Rad Na)
Excellent Lad Na, noodles in gravy sauce, I admit I’m not a big fan of this dish but this one is good and copious. You can also choose the dish of fried noodles (Pad See ew). Cooking on the narrow pavement but you will be invited to eat inside the house. Open from 11.00 to 14.00. 40 baht.
To Go There
MRT Sirikit Center station, take a motorcycle taxi (15 baht), ask to go up to the 7 eleven at the corner of Soi 22, the stall is 30 meters before.
Klangsuan Restaurant (a dialectal name for a house garden)
A hidden lovely restaurant in a 70’s style renovated house located in a small soi between Sukhumvit Soi 16 et 22. Open for a year, This is the place to experience homemade Southern Thai food at a very reasonable price. All the curry paste are homemade, and some vegetables are grown in their garden. Southern food is a bit spicy, just mention not spicy and it will be fine. The amateurs of beer will be delighted. Nice staff.
No pretention in the presentation of the dishes here, a cuisine full of different flavors, simple but tasty.
Where is it?
The fastest way is from the Sirikit Convention Center MRT station. Take left out of the station, walk 20 meters and left and you are in the soi, then walk straight and pass the crossroad, at the second curve take left, the restaurant is few meters away on the right-hand side.
Mae Am The Pink Pad Thai
A small restaurant just a few steps from the MRT station. Mae Am has managed to make a name for herself for her Pad Thai who is among the best in Bangkok. The pasta is prepared before with tamarind paste, sugar cane, and fish sauce and shrimp fat giving them a pinkish color. Like at Pad Thai Ekhamai she fries the eggs separately and put it on top. It is served with the banana leaves and the delicate inner rolled leaves of the flower, lime, chives, fresh bean sprouts, and Mae Am has added the healthy bai bua bok (pennywort, centella) also, the portion is generous. It is best to go after 13.00 when employees had returned to work. Very busy at the end of the day when offices close, many people come to buy for dinner. Definitely one of the best in the city.
Opens from 10.00 to 22.00 from Monday to Friday, open on Sunday at 14.00 – 22.00
Price. No shrimp 50 baht, with shrimp 60 baht, special 100 baht.
After your lunch, you can take a walk in the Benjakitti park. Take right as you leave the restaurant and go up the soi Rong Ngan Ya Sub which will take you into the park in front of the tobacco factory head office, hence the name of the soi, and behind the Queen Sirikit Convention Center which will be demolished in April 2019 for the construction of a four-storey tower. Crossing the park you will reach Sukhumvit Asok, Terminal 21.
To Get There
MRT Klong Toei exit 2, pass the soi Ring Ngan Ya Sub, a few steps and you’re there.
Heng Chun Seng Red Meat Soup
Open for over 40 years, this restaurant is famous for its tender red meat and their specialty maw fai “firepot,” or hot pot. They sell the soup with two types of noodles, sen mi, and sen lek. I always order sen lek with everything “saie took yang” beef and entrails (tongue, liver, intestines, and spleen) a delicious sugar/salted mixture. But of course, you can choose according to your taste. 50 baht + 2 baht if you drink water. The lady speaks English.
Open. Monday to Friday from 07.00 to 15.00
Closed. No fixed day
Address: 1224-6 Rama IV Road
How To Get There
Khao Mang Kai chicken-fat rice
Right next to Heng Chun Seng there is an unnamed restaurant that serves only Khao Mang Kai, Hainanese chicken rice, Boiled chicken, soy sauce, Chinese black vinegar, ginger, small Thai peppers and cucumber slices, which like Kuay Teow is a very popular and economical dish. It is served in street stalls and restaurants, fast service. This restaurant serves a very good and big portion. One of my favorite.
A dish adapted from the first immigrants from Hainan province in southern China.
40 baht + 2 baht for the glass of water
address. 1224-4 Rama IV Road Rama 4 Road
Dancing Duck Noodles
That’s not a common name for a restaurant. Located behind Heng Chung Sen, the owner used to dance while he cooked hence this name. My Thai friend told me it’s a restaurant known for that but also for good duck dishes. I went there several times but never saw him dance. Now the son takes over and tells me that his father helps him from time to time, but he is over the age of dancing. Well known to the Thais, duck lovers will appreciate Dancing Duk. The duck either with noodles or rice is tasty and tender and the soup is very aromatic. You can choose any part, meat, leg, foot, intestines and more. Try it!
My dish, noodle soup sen lek with braised duck legs 60 baht
Drink, longan fruit juice 15 baht
The menu is in English but no price list. Prices are a bit high if you choose duck wings, duck’s neck, tongue, gizzard or brown sauce.100 to 150 baht.
Opens from 07.00 to 17.00
Address. 1222/24 Rama 4 avenue
Thai Michelin Award
Shell Shuan Shim “Welcome to Taste”, is similar to the Michelin stars. It is awarded if a restaurant or company produces excellent tasting products. It was created years ago by a Thai aristocrat named Thanatsri Svasti, who was an executive public relations at the Shell oil company renowned for its refined palate. An award which is taken quite seriously in Thailand, so you will see the green bowl logo prominently displayed wherever it’s been awarded. Today, his son is a renowned chef and a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America.
What I Think
I am not in favor of Monosodium glutamate (MSG) and try to avoid it as much as possible. Monosodium glutamate (MSG) is a natural aliment in tomatoes, mushrooms and many other, so why to add more. Most restaurants and stall vendors use it to enhance the flavor, so if you think like me, don’t forget to ask no Ajinomoto please “Pong Choo Rot” Ka/Krap, in Thai.
A very interesting website to learn more about all the additives found in food.
I hope this will be helpful for planning your next trip to Bangkok. If you have any questions, I will be more than happy to help you out.
Your support messages and comments are always welcome.